This Time For Africa
Monday, November 22, 2010
updates
Due to the nature of the past 2 weeks of my life, I can no longer write in paragraphs. Here are some glimpses into places I've been, people I have met, and crazy moments in life.
Floating in with the tide as the sun sets in the west. Then turning out to the ocean to see a rainbow far in the distance.
A 2 hour ride in the bed of a mini truck/wagon thing full of rasta guys. Singing and yelling in a crazy blend of English and Kiswahili as the evening blackened into night. On either side of us were fields of palm trees, wide open cassava farms, and forests full of monkeys.
A group of little boys on the beach. I brought them a soccer game and we organized a game, Argentina vs. Arsenal (not sure what league this was in). Now they yell "Argentina!" any time they see me on the paths.
Running barefoot down the street of Stone Town in a rainstorm. We ran past people hiding under tarps, huddled together to escape from the downpour. We ran until we reached the beach, rivulets of rain streamed into the ocean, we followed them, shedding our soaked clothes to dive into the warm water.
Two snakes wrapped around my wrists like bracelets. Knotting themselves into pretzels on my arms.
Singing traditional Maasai songs while walking through shallow waters with a Maasai man from Ongoroongoro Crater.
A cat named Obama.
Tuesday, November 9, 2010
Storytelling; Rasta Style
For the month of November, I am traveling around Zanzibar collecting traditional folklore, environmental histories, and children's stories. At least that was my plan. After only four days in Paje, which is an idyllic beach village on Zanzibar's southeast coast, I'm hooked.
I started out collecting stories from kids and village elders, but since arriving at the beach, I have found so much more. Within the first hour of being here, I made friends with a cool Maasai guy from Ngorongoro crater in mainland Tanzania. He proceeded to tell me five stories, sing traditional Maasai music with me, and teach me all about where he comes from.
Since I'm alone here, I pretty much have to fend for myself in terms of friend-making, food, partying, etc. I became friends with a cool group of guys who have started their own bar on the beach. We hang out, swap music, and talk, and tomorrow we're all going running together. Anyway, they think it's hilarious that I'm collecting stories and I keep asking them to tell me one. Below is a story that I got one night at the bar. Try to imagine reggae blaring in the background.
Kima (monkey) na Ganja
The monkey was sitting in a palm tree. He was smoking the weed. Then lizard, he said, "Monkey, what are you doing?"
"I"m rolling some weed, you want some?" said Monkey.
"Yes, I would like some." said Lizard. So they smoked. But Lizard, he was coughing and his throat was so dry. So he said, "I need to go get water."
Then Monkey said, "Watch out for the crocodile in the river. He will eat you." So Lizard, he went to the river, he was so high. Then Crocodile, he saw Lizard and he said, "Lizard, why do you go in my river? You are crazy man." And Lizard he said, "I am so high man. I am thirsty." And Crocodile, he replied, "Where did you get the weed?" And Lizard responded, "The monkey has weed, he is up in the palm tree." So Crocodile climbed the tree, and when Monkey saw him he said, "How much water did you drink man?"
"Crazy man," said Crocodile. "I am Crocodile, not Lizard."
Not sure if this one will make it into my project. Could add a cool twist, and definitely something to write about.
I started out collecting stories from kids and village elders, but since arriving at the beach, I have found so much more. Within the first hour of being here, I made friends with a cool Maasai guy from Ngorongoro crater in mainland Tanzania. He proceeded to tell me five stories, sing traditional Maasai music with me, and teach me all about where he comes from.
Since I'm alone here, I pretty much have to fend for myself in terms of friend-making, food, partying, etc. I became friends with a cool group of guys who have started their own bar on the beach. We hang out, swap music, and talk, and tomorrow we're all going running together. Anyway, they think it's hilarious that I'm collecting stories and I keep asking them to tell me one. Below is a story that I got one night at the bar. Try to imagine reggae blaring in the background.
Kima (monkey) na Ganja
The monkey was sitting in a palm tree. He was smoking the weed. Then lizard, he said, "Monkey, what are you doing?"
"I"m rolling some weed, you want some?" said Monkey.
"Yes, I would like some." said Lizard. So they smoked. But Lizard, he was coughing and his throat was so dry. So he said, "I need to go get water."
Then Monkey said, "Watch out for the crocodile in the river. He will eat you." So Lizard, he went to the river, he was so high. Then Crocodile, he saw Lizard and he said, "Lizard, why do you go in my river? You are crazy man." And Lizard he said, "I am so high man. I am thirsty." And Crocodile, he replied, "Where did you get the weed?" And Lizard responded, "The monkey has weed, he is up in the palm tree." So Crocodile climbed the tree, and when Monkey saw him he said, "How much water did you drink man?"
"Crazy man," said Crocodile. "I am Crocodile, not Lizard."
Not sure if this one will make it into my project. Could add a cool twist, and definitely something to write about.
Tuesday, November 2, 2010
Election Time
Sunday was the election in Zanzibar. The two parties, the Citizens United Front (CUF) and CCM have been in conflict for years. CCM is the ruling party, though apparently CUF is the party of the majority of people. There has been much violence during elections in the past. Shooting in the streets, violence by police, and general disorder. With plans for a coalition government, we hope that this election will be more peaceful. Yet no one can be sure.
We returned to Stone Town from Tanzania on a ferry yesterday afternoon. The streets were quiet, and armed military soldiers stood on every corner. From our bus we saw big trucks full of soldiers speeding by, and we were warned to stay inside. Our teachers literally brought us our food and told us to be careful on the street. Flags hung over every street, the CCM green and gold, and the CUF red, white, and blue indicated which areas supported which political party. Busses and trucks drove by with blasting music, and men waving and shouting.
Late last night, we were still awaiting results, and heard fighting and yelling outside. We were told that many people were upset, hoping to change the results. I visited my homestay family to find out more. Rumor has it that the CUF actually got more votes, but the powerful CCM ignored the votes and declared themselves winners.
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| CCM rally in Dar Es Salaam |
Life is good and the peaceful city is back to normal.
Sunday, October 31, 2010
Friday, October 22, 2010
Baboons and blue balled monkeys
Just another walk to class at the University of Dar Es Salaam.
(Pictures TK, need to find a way to sneak up on that baboon without him seeing me.)
Also, Dar Es Salaam means "Place of Peace" in arabic.
It poured right before we got on the boat, and the streets ran with sewage. But we were happy.
We are studying here for two weeks. Staying in dorms, eating in dining halls, and going to lecture. It's sort of crazy to be doing such similar things to home in such a different place. Every morning a group of us run down to the track for a workout, there are always other people running (mostly guys), playing soccer, basketball, and doing pull ups. I don't join in the latter. We usually eat a breakfast of pigs in a blanket, hard boiled eggs, and juice for 3,000tsh ($2) at an outdoor cafe. Then we go to two hours of lecture.
Some of the lectures have been really awesome. We study things like Coastal People in Africa, Land Based Pollution, Environmental Law and Policy through a third world lens, and Genetic Diversity. We are finished with exams, and it has been really great to be able to just listen and learn out of interest, not necessity.
There is an outdoor pool, and we went as a group, wearing speedo bathing suits, and playing sharks and minnows with snorkels. Cool kids for sure.
The dining halls are cheap and delicious. Dinner is usually pasta with veggies and fried chicken and a beer at the outdoor restaurant bar. It almost feels like eating at a resort.
Today we are going to see alternative energy production sites in the city, then coming back for dinner and finally a real weekend night at college! And next week we are headed to Makumi National Park for a safari! I can't wait!
(Pictures TK, need to find a way to sneak up on that baboon without him seeing me.)
Also, Dar Es Salaam means "Place of Peace" in arabic.
It poured right before we got on the boat, and the streets ran with sewage. But we were happy.
| Rachel and Jordan in the random warehouse while we waited for the skies to clear. |
Some of the lectures have been really awesome. We study things like Coastal People in Africa, Land Based Pollution, Environmental Law and Policy through a third world lens, and Genetic Diversity. We are finished with exams, and it has been really great to be able to just listen and learn out of interest, not necessity.
There is an outdoor pool, and we went as a group, wearing speedo bathing suits, and playing sharks and minnows with snorkels. Cool kids for sure.
The dining halls are cheap and delicious. Dinner is usually pasta with veggies and fried chicken and a beer at the outdoor restaurant bar. It almost feels like eating at a resort.
| Katie on the ferry to Dar. |
This one time in Africa...
I lost a rosham and had to eat a cricket.
I'm going to take a break from roshams for a while.
The worst part was that I made it into a chapati and cricket sandwich. Instead of masking the taste it drew out the whole experience. I had to get my protein from somewhere.
I'm going to take a break from roshams for a while.
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